3 May 2014


First in the car park at Brimham, the hordes are coming but not for an hour, until then I'm alone. There is just the merest hint of cold in the air. It's not summer just yet and it's dry, you can feel the lack of moisture in the air. I dance across my warm up traverse in my shoes and stick that crimpy 6b+ wall first go, these are good omens, maybe enough offerings have been made?

Cubic is  a long steep throw for a distant hold, brute force and belief will do it, I have little of either. I get on it and it shrugs me off. I try some cunning and manage to drop a knee. It rolls over and lets me pass, a good start.

The bizarre Green Roof is fun. It's a roll onto an overhanging lip but there is a trick. All the holds are there and it takes me 20 minutes to find them. I would tell you where they are but you should find them yourself, recommended if you like crosswords.

Onto Whiskey Galore a classic bit of 7A and the reason I'm here if I'm honest. A steep shallow groove with small holds and even they run out at half height. Today somehow I can make the right shapes and unlike the last few sessions I'm established in the groove quickly with my hands maybe a foot from the top. I fiddle with feet placements and test the landing a few times. It's good even with my mat that doubles as a paving slab.

Finally I manage some weird foot spin move for my right that makes my hip hurt, but means I am maybe 3 inches from the lip. If I let go and pop will my feet  hold? I let go  and pop they hold and the lip is in reach. All good, trebles all round. Best session this season and it's been a vintage 15 year old Malt of a season. Maybe one more day this good before the bracken is over head height and everything greases up?

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