10 March 2014

You're going to reap just what you sow - Caley, perfect day


The job was looked at by 11, so the rest of the day until the schools turn out was my own, off to Caley then. I meet a Climber Who Shall Remain Nameless (ACWSRN) and we got to playing on the playground as you do. Perfect conditions, sun finally over the crag top for the first time this year so warmer, but dry and grippy, all too good and not a cloud to be seen.

ACWSRN polished off Thin Slab in some style and I let him. It looked a little necky for my liking even at 5+. We both had some success with the brute thuggery of Breakfest (6a) and before we knew it we had wandered under the power lines towards the other end of Caley where few go. Neat Arete was just that  ACWSRN threw for the top and then finished in style, I wimped off the top out. Good value at 5+ I thought. We wandered down toward Rough Rib which claims to be a classic of the crag. It's a rising layaway arete with a reachy top from a good break, good holds throughout peerless problem, recommended.

Next up Our Fathers Arete  which is knacky and powerful. I eventually cracked the crux with a cheeky heel hook but couldn't finish as I got too spread out and ran out of beans. ACWSRN had no such problems he got his feet up and threw for the top as his feet slipped off and he held it. Effort, another one that looked good value at 6a+ and another top draw problem, need to get back on it soon.

Finally we headed back along the bottom and played on the chicken scoop bloc. ACWSRN  ticked the bloc with some style, and I was delighted with a bit of alleged 6c on Edge Wall which succumbed to delicate feet and a throw for a pocket. This time last year I could barely pull on, today I could throw off the fairly poor holds. A fair few ticks today, the hoped for improvement after a diet of protein and plastic seems to be materialising. Your going to reap what you sow, I guess.

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