23 May 2013

Here comes the summer


Woolly hat or sun hat? I was torn as I left the car the woolly hat won, I would rather be too warm I reasoned.

James arrives we wander up in full sun to the Cliff and the end boulder. Dean appears and then Bryn and Stu. We play around on Below the Decks myself and James getting it off a kneeling start but a full sitter was just out of reach.

Left Rib next, a bette noir of mine from the last few years. The easiest problem on my list and a "classic frightener."  A weird shaped ear of rock maybe 10 ft off the ground with a rock over to finish nearly highball, feels high. Louis was on it first making it look at least V5 with a sequence that set the Pyscho daggers off in my head, he toughed it out and his fingers crept over the top edge in slow motion.

James made it look easy and then Dean's hand was in my back shoving me to the front, resistance was futile. I got on it dithered about on the rock over and then lots of shouts of "get on with it, and get your left foot up" crept through my concentration and I rocked over smoothly. The other Dave got the star though, he managed to stuff up the rock-over ended up sat on the ear looking likely to tip off into the void. His spotters rapidly got their hands out of their pockets and braced for impact, somehow he slithered to the mats. I'm glad that one is off my list, tick it and move on.

Morell's Wall looking into the setting sun for third course. I flashed it with my cheaters knee bar, Dean too, James took a few goes but it gave in to his power. Bryn looks good on it he needs a little more belief and it will be his. Chris took a few goes and fell the length when the crimp slipped through his fingers but got there in the end. Many more were called few chosen, never a push over this one.

Cold now, wind biting through, those of us who dressed for summer, I'm chilling out too. We play trench warfare on the Virgin traverse. Some thin looking guy making it look if not easy at least possible. Dean gets round the corner before his newly found punter's arms give in through lack of use. Me and James get beaten up by the steepness, James doing rather better than this fat boy. Finally the crack on the keel boulder gets some attention but we are cold and tired and so we slope off into the  dusk.

Heater on full blast in the car, extremities thaw. I drink my beer on the sofa with my woolly hat on, Mrs Time Ticks suggests I take it off before bed and reluctantly I acquiesce. Cold for May, cold for February.



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