10 March 2013

Constant repetition brings rewards - Getting the Horn



Cold and crisp, wind from the East, snow flurries. I went running with Rachael this morning. I had nearly warmed up after half an hour. Round five at Harrogate wall is on, but what if its good at Caley?

James answers my post on Facebook and then there are no excuses. By one the snow has stopped, I'm warming up in the playground. James arrives with youth and enthusiasm, he will do for me. We sort out the thin playground traverse which is getting some sun.

Bob's Bastard next, James has been wrestling with it for a bit, but first go he got on it, turned his hand to throw some weight over the slab and he was good, nicely. I finally got the pocket with some beta from James, nearly sent it but couldn't quite get my weight over my feet, best go by far though.

Next down to Low Pebble wall a steep slab all crystals and smears. James sorts the start move, I add a step up and then we are both at the point where jumping off gets a little more serious. Next go and I have two pockets both taking the ends of two fingers and about a metre more to the top. I work my feet, get a poor half pocket for my right hand and know when I take my hand off and go for the top, I will be falling and trying to spot a good landing. I mutter "catch me" then the hand comes off and there I stay, slap the lip and its done. Chuffed, a rare moment of commitment.

James gives it best and we have a go on New Jersualem. We are both getting the Gaston with today's super friction but neither of us do a lot with it. Finally we try some painful jamming on Cruel Crack but jamming this vicious needs a warmer day I reckon, nice problem though.

James has to be at work at 3.30, so he heads off and I take the well worn path up to the Horn. Its looks green, it isn't its dry as a bedouin's water butt. I recognise my chalk marks from my last few sessions, this isn't funny anymore, this needs to be done. I strip off socks and thermals, coats and chalk bag and all my pocket change, then its starts to snow.

Hands touch, first go, nearly get the pocket but off, didn't squeak my boots, "punter".

Second go clean boots, got the pocket, got the sloper, feet up, sod it lets throw for the top. Arms extend, whoosh, done, massive jug, easy. What was all the fuss about? Benchmark V4. Life back, off hold.
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