We got stuck in, and here is the rub with this problem, every move is possible there are just lots of them. Every time we got a little further, every go sapped power at an alarming rate. You climb like a sloth towing your feet, wedging them in a slot trying to keep the weight off your arms as much as you can.
On about go four I pretty much made the corner at two thirds distance, which is a shuffle in the right direction although word is it gets hard from there. Craig who hasn't paid homage as much as I have was half a move further back. Its a compelling problem we will return.
We cut our Virgin losses and did a few bits more. That wall to the left of Matterhorn Arete went again. We both flashed it, which is good as it took me over a year to work it out. Craig flashed that slappy, quality, one move wonder by the bottom wall, I should have been annoyed, but his beta was good so I have a new sequence to try with fresher arms. The wind rose, our enthusiasm waned so we did a bit more and then gave it best. The friction had been fantastic for June and the progress way better than either of us imagined, a good session.
I headed off to Bingley to pick up the boys from my in-laws, but an idea was gnawing away in my head. I wasn't happy with progress I wanted to send something so work would seem more bearable in the morning. I headed for Otley's West Chevin and the vague promise of a punter's paradise
I found the right walk in this time, although crocs and a cow muck filled swamp made for smelly memories and destroyed a pair of socks. I assumed it would all be drenched from the weeks flood and I was on a fools errand. I got to the boulders and they were bone dry, the wind had whipped through the trees and the friction was spot on.
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| Barn door is the left arete, Super Central is straight up the middle from the mat |
