19 July 2012

Pull harder, Slap further Almscliff in July


The forecast had flicked around all week so I had low expectations, especially as the rain seems to be making me eat like Mr Creosote. Then it came good and I was walking up to the Cliff in a stiff breeze, thinking nothing much would be in the lee of the wind. Oddly most things were, the wind had dryed the rock and the conditions were good.

I got straight onto that pig of thing below Low Man that breaks the wall. A one move wonder, not much higher than you are, at Almscliff 6a+ whatever that is in font grades. A slap off two small crimps and one decent foothold for a sloper, that then peels unless you hit it just right on a good day. I slapped and missed, slapped and missed. Craig's beta from last week giving me a chance but no certain outcome. Than I stuck it and it peeled, then I stuck it and it was done. July already written off due to weather finally delivered a small prize, I'll take it and take the smallest of bows.

Morrell's Wall gave in for the first time this year. The first broken crimp feels thin for this punter now, so the friction must have been good. Bryn and Stu crimped and huffed and got a little further but didn't blow the house down. The sun streamed in from the edge of a cloud. I could hear Jerusalem being played by a brass band maybe the others heard it too? It was that kind of night. Louis arrived with the laid back swagger of a  mafia crime boss. Jersulam stopped and the Godfather theme tune started, played quietly, mainly strings. Then the Capo tutti Capi showed Morrell's who was the boss and the English Grit slept with the fishes.

Next stop Demon Wall and environs  for games of skill and guile. Pebble Wall reared its magnificent head and asked for challengers. Many were called, few chosen, none actually. Louis got the closest with his incredible extending arms latching the pebble, but foot position is all and neither of us could commit to the crucial hop off an undercut. I tried a foot change Cajun two-step that may yet unlock the problem but that is for another splendid evening.
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