15 March 2012

Time Ticks Yorkshire Picks

Here's the first Time Ticks Yorkshire Picks some quality Punter level problems on God's very own Rock. If you did all of these in a weekend you would have a great time, loose lots of skin and earn a few beers.

1. Mr Smooth -  Caley Crag   V3, 6A

Caley is of course one of the best crags in the world and pretty good for Yorkshire too. Mr smooth is a truly great lower grade problem. It takes an undercut slab on fierce crimps. You rockover  and pad up the slab. At least that's the plan. I've seen it shrug off some pretty good boulderers whilst they sort their feet out.  I don't want to give away all the secrets but work your feet placements backwards from where you want them to end up on the slab, then  rockover further than you think, you will come into balance eventually.


While your at it check out the Flapjack scoop at a more reasonable V2, 5+ although that can be just as infuriating if you get the sequence wrong. Bryn has been trying it for two years and he still can't get it.

The compelling flapjack scoop

Also don't miss Smear Arete V2, 5 a beautiful little arete where the clue is in the name and finally The Roof of the World, a wonderfully overhanging prow which goes from both sides at  V0, 4+ from the right and V2, 5+  from the left. You can also attack it straight up the middle at not much harder if you can campus a bit and for heroes its pretty hard off a sitter. Caley can be green in the winter and neck high in bracken in the summer but Mr smooth often stays dry and its free from vegetation at the bottom.

How to get there  Caley is near Otley


View caley in a larger map

2. South Cave Arete -   Almscliffe  V3 6A+


South Cave Arete
You could pick a few great lower grade problems at Almscliff; the classic Morrell's Wall V3 6A (actually pretty steady for the grade). The Crucifix which defines V1 really although some find it hard. As ever sort your feet out and also straight-arm the top crack. The excellent Crucifix Arete V3 6A+ should have been a contender it is good, but its really sequency and unless your strong it goes best with a really painful jam that chews your hand up so you only get a few goes in any session.

The groove Low man Slab
I have plumped for  the little climbed South Cave Arete below Low Man and round a bit. Its a thuggy start followed by a delicate yet powerful finish and its one of those you have to hit just right or your back on the ground scratching your head.

Some do it with a long reach to the break, see the shots of big Fran Holland on Yorkshire Grit. I did it with a side pull in the runnel. Either way its a gem of a problem. It can take some seepage which is unusual for the Cliff where most things dry in moments, when the rain stops. Whilst your there, warm up on Low Man slab because its lovely especially the shallow groove on the left which goes at 3+ . Then dance with the pockets on MK Wall  V1, 5 which seems awkward until you have a good go.
Next up you have to try the Matterhorn Arete V1, 5. Its a bit highball but the holds are all good. Please put a mat under it if your not too steady and don't bin it at the top. Head round the back of the Morell's Wall boulder on your way back and try the lovely little 4/5 problem that starts just over the wall and climbs a short crack which runs out as you head onto the slab, quality.

How to get there Almscliffe is up the Hill from Huby


View Almscliffe in a larger map


3. The Pommel - Brimaham V4, 6b+
The Pommel
Brimham is lovely, the only problem is paying to park and the whole intensive tourist vibe until that is you get below the top pinnacles. The Pommel is a classic problem with a whole  area named after it. An over hanging prow/arete  number with  seemingly not enough holds on it to climb it. The secret for me was a heel/toe jam in the first break and then a big span up for the arete before spanning up again and  right for the sloppey top. Its not over when you get there but I'm not giving the whole game away.

There are some lovely lower grade problems just to the left of the Pommel to warm up, on all at the 3/4 mark. Whilst your in the vicinity check the high quality 4+ arete hidden down an alleyway, then try the thin crimpy 6b wall just to its right which does go if you believe enough. Worth finding is the dynamic break pulling lunge fest at V2, 5+ that is round to the right with a top that seems scary to me. If you still have arms left after that have a go on Black Dog Arete V5, 6C although word is it a step up from the Pommel. All of this two minutes from the car. The area  can get a bit busy as its so convenient.  Take a guide and if its rammed there is more than as much on the rest of the edge, just try not to get lost in the woods. Some routes seep a bit after rain but the Pommel is dry in all but the worst of weather.

How to get there


View Pommel area in a larger map


Acknowledgements
Most of the problems here are recorded on the marvellous  Yorkshire grit.com the brainchild of Jon Pearson but also the work of all those boulderers who contributed photos and descriptions of the routes. Yorkshire grit costs £24 a month to run if you use it a lot you can donate here.




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