1. Mr Smooth - Caley Crag V3, 6A
Caley is of course one of the best crags in the world and pretty good for Yorkshire too. Mr smooth is a truly great lower grade problem. It takes an undercut slab on fierce crimps. You rockover and pad up the slab. At least that's the plan. I've seen it shrug off some pretty good boulderers whilst they sort their feet out. I don't want to give away all the secrets but work your feet placements backwards from where you want them to end up on the slab, then rockover further than you think, you will come into balance eventually.
While your at it check out the Flapjack scoop at a more reasonable V2, 5+ although that can be just as infuriating if you get the sequence wrong. Bryn has been trying it for two years and he still can't get it.
|The compelling flapjack scoop|
Also don't miss Smear Arete V2, 5 a beautiful little arete where the clue is in the name and finally The Roof of the World, a wonderfully overhanging prow which goes from both sides at V0, 4+ from the right and V2, 5+ from the left. You can also attack it straight up the middle at not much harder if you can campus a bit and for heroes its pretty hard off a sitter. Caley can be green in the winter and neck high in bracken in the summer but Mr smooth often stays dry and its free from vegetation at the bottom.
How to get there Caley is near Otley
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2. South Cave Arete - Almscliffe V3 6A+
|South Cave Arete|
|The groove Low man Slab|
Some do it with a long reach to the break, see the shots of big Fran Holland on Yorkshire Grit. I did it with a side pull in the runnel. Either way its a gem of a problem. It can take some seepage which is unusual for the Cliff where most things dry in moments, when the rain stops. Whilst your there, warm up on Low Man slab because its lovely especially the shallow groove on the left which goes at 3+ . Then dance with the pockets on MK Wall V1, 5 which seems awkward until you have a good go.
Next up you have to try the Matterhorn Arete V1, 5. Its a bit highball but the holds are all good. Please put a mat under it if your not too steady and don't bin it at the top. Head round the back of the Morell's Wall boulder on your way back and try the lovely little 4/5 problem that starts just over the wall and climbs a short crack which runs out as you head onto the slab, quality.
How to get there Almscliffe is up the Hill from Huby
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3. The Pommel - Brimaham V4, 6b+
There are some lovely lower grade problems just to the left of the Pommel to warm up, on all at the 3/4 mark. Whilst your in the vicinity check the high quality 4+ arete hidden down an alleyway, then try the thin crimpy 6b wall just to its right which does go if you believe enough. Worth finding is the dynamic break pulling lunge fest at V2, 5+ that is round to the right with a top that seems scary to me. If you still have arms left after that have a go on Black Dog Arete V5, 6C although word is it a step up from the Pommel. All of this two minutes from the car. The area can get a bit busy as its so convenient. Take a guide and if its rammed there is more than as much on the rest of the edge, just try not to get lost in the woods. Some routes seep a bit after rain but the Pommel is dry in all but the worst of weather.
How to get there
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Most of the problems here are recorded on the marvellous Yorkshire grit.com the brainchild of Jon Pearson but also the work of all those boulderers who contributed photos and descriptions of the routes. Yorkshire grit costs £24 a month to run if you use it a lot you can donate here.