24 March 2012

Horns, Heroes and Psycho's


Back to Caley having arranged to meet Craig of ProBalm fame via twitter. Mrs Time Ticks was convinced that meeting someone off the web was tantamount to self harm. When I got there Craig seemed far from a Psycho and was accompanied by Kate. Most Psychos don't bring others with them I figured.

We were also it had transpired, going to be watching the suspiciously underfed and strong looking James Ibberttson. Who was having a go at the high, thin and blank slab of Psycho amongst other things. Boreal were with him filming, Craig and I had offered to spot.

James warmed up on Forked Lightening Crack myself and Craig declaring it too wet in the mist. He lapped it three time once off a sitter. Meanwhile I straightened out Chicken Heads with both a direct start and finish and Craig demolished Otley Wall. I got across the smeary traverse but jumped off at the move up due to "grease" and a short neck, Should go next session with a little more belief.

James on The Great Flake
Craig re-bothered New Jerusalem and was getting close but gravity was winning as the sloper wouldn't stick. He took solace in a now drying Forked Lightening Crack which he now got easy and which I still can't get anywhere on.

James then made short work of highballing the scary looking Pyscho which is a good thirty foot high at the top. He even  down-climbed the last few moves again for the camera. Next up he cruised The Great Flake above a monster stack of pads whilst we all looked on, spotting in awed silence. He looked rock solid as he almost sprinted up the flake, bottom to top in maybe 40 seconds. It  looked every bit its E6 6B with some huge spans, little for the feet and an awkward landing to say the least, if you blew it near the top.



Having watched the God's at play the Mortals shuffled off to bother the Horn, which was in pretty good condition by this point. Craig was complaining of a sore elbow and I took him for spent, until he sorted The Horn out with a dynamic looking sequence. I had a few flails and made some good progress, nearly latching what looks like the crucial pocket. After grabbing the sloper on the lip one too many times though my fingers were uncurling and it was time to head home. A good day in less than perfect conditions, nice to meet some new people and great to see some good climbers showing how it can be made to look easy with enough practise and belief.

Update 7/5/12

Here is the video Boreal released as part of their true grip series.









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