21 February 2012
Some wise words from some wise people
The Compressor route on Cerro Torre has gone free and the first ascensionists chopped some of the 200 bolts that bludgeoned their way up some of the most controversial climbing in mountaineering history. In 1970 a bolt ladder made it possible and climbing divided on wether bolts were acceptable or not as a means of making a route. The debate goes on. What was bizarre is that people have criticised Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk for daring to chop the bolts after their ascent
It's been great then to see some pretty big names in mountaineering defending their right to remove the ironwork and applauding their achievement. Seems like there are some new hard men out there.
I also came across this article by the great Yvon Chouinard the man behind Patagonia and some big days out in Yosemite who has also spoken in support of Kennedy and Kruk. He has also been a long term advocate of the view that how you climb is as important as what you climb. The article is about making first ascents in his late sixties and how you can stay radical to the end if you don't let your mind grow old. Climbing has become a lot harder recently at least in terms of grades climbed. I wonder if the focus on the physical has been at the expense of the beauty of the experience sometimes.
Posted by Dave Prince
About the Author
Dave has been climbing rocks for as long as he can remember, odd then that he isn't better at it. He lives in Harrogate as he can't afford to live any closer to Almscliff. He is hoping to get up Pebble Wall before his middle aged knees give out.
5.10 95.2 Almscliff Android Barefoot Bivvy Bleau Bouldering Bridestones Brimham Burbage Caley Charity Chateauveau Cinema Circuit climbing Climbing Solo Crags Crookrise Crucifix Day Out Dennis Grey Doveholes e11 Falls Fatigue featured Flasby Flexibilty Font Fontainbleau Google Currents Gorge aux Chats gritstone Hanging Rib Harrogate Climbing Centre Head space Hepburn Highball Holiday Hunter's Stones Ilkley Indoors Injury iPad iPhone Jams Knee Moonlit Morrell's Wall News Night Northumberland Opinion Otley Mini Mountain Festival Peak District Progress Reviews Rock noob Rothley Roundhill Rumbling Kern Safety Scugdale Shipley Glen Skin Care Slipstones Snow Spring Stanage Stu/Bryn Summer Sunset Sypeland Teaspoon area The Depot Tick Tower ridge Trad Training Virgin Widdop Wide Boyz Wounds Yoga Yorkshire Yorkshire Air Ambulance Yorkshire gritstone guide
Fresh off Santa's Sleigh comes the much needed Boulder Britain by the sometimes outspoken Niall Grimes. I was worried this book wo...
Anybody who regularly reads this blog will know of my love/hate relationship with climbing walls. Thing is in the winter when its cold, da...
Every climber gets to have an 'epic' now and again. They generally involve heading off with good intentions, making one or two bad c...
- ► 2011 (60)
- ▼ February (5)
- ► 2013 (56)
- ► 2014 (29)