20 July 2011

That wall left of Matterhorn Arete - again

It wasn't really raining and it wasn't really not raining either. It was a sort of Summer fog/high tide kind of evening. Sick of  indoor walls and with the mediocre lure of yet more convenience plastic looming. I clenched my teeth and headed for the Cliff. I had the place to myself. Other people having more sense or less commitment, I decided.

 That wall left of Matterhorn Arete was bizarrely dry given  that seepage lines and puddles abounded everywhere else. I had a good few pulls on it. I got my hand just below and worse just above the little flake that should unlock it.

Alas my hand didn't want to hit  the flake right. Each attempt  was at full power on fairly thin crimps with next to nothing for the feet. Each attempt was using up lots of fuel and the law of diminishing returns was definitely applying. I had a breather followed by a wander around then tried a few other bits and pieces. They were all wet or pretty damp so I was greasing off left, right and centre.

I finally headed back to TWLOMA for  a few more goes. I didn't get any closer and on my second go peeled a flap of skin the size of a 5p off a finger tip. With pride wounded I shut down the session pretty quickly. This one is turning into a siege a bit like Crucifix Arete but I think some good conditions and a low tide and it will go. I have made 2ft of progress in twelve months, glaciers move faster.
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