19 June 2011
A little more eccentric a lot less pain
I suffered from Golfer's elbow this winter, not I hasten to add from playing golf. The cause was my Peter Pan complex convincing me that 42 was a reasonable age for a twelve stone man to start training on a fingerboard. By mid february all but jug pulling was causing quite sharp pain and I assumed the cure was a long rest and layoff, with my paranoia suggesting the end of my middle aged comeback.
Googling round the issue eccentric wrist curls were getting some attention. These exercises seem to be working for both Golfers elbow - pain inside of the elbow and Tennis elbow where the pain is on the outside.
The exercise involves strapping a couple of one pound weights to a one ft length of broom handle. You then sit at a table with the broom handle sticking vertically upward like you are giving the worlds most extreme thumbs up. You then allow the weight to fall outwards slowly until it is lying parallel to the table, your wrist and forearm having twisted under load. You then lift the weight up and return it vertical with the other arm. The weight is lowered internally for Tennis elbow by the way.
Two weeks of doing 20 or so of these a day and I was symptom free. It has flared up once or twice since then but the exercises are managing it nicely.
here is Tom Randall of WideBoyz fame arguing for a different lying down technique
Here is a video from UK Climbing showing what I have probably not explained that well.
This is Dave McCloud explaining why it seems to be working as a miracle cure for lots of climbers.
Posted by Dave Prince
About the Author
Dave has been climbing rocks for as long as he can remember, odd then that he isn't better at it. He lives in Harrogate as he can't afford to live any closer to Almscliff. He is hoping to get up Pebble Wall before his middle aged knees give out.
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